In an attempt to get my two young daughters to eat more home made bread instead of the super soft supermarket pap, I've been trying variations on the milk loaf from Dan Lepard's The Handmade Loaf. The fat in the milk helps make the crumb soft and the extra calcium is great for growing girls even though they already consume a reasonable amount of milk and yogurt. My first attempt was almost straight from the book:
250g strong white flour
250g plain flour
350g whole milk
20g maple syrup
25g unsalted butter
8g salt
5g dry yeast
I divided the dough into two balls, placed them both in the large 2lb tin and sprayed the top with water. I preheated the oven (non-fan) to 260C but turned it down to 240C when the loaf went in. I baked it for about 30 minutes with the last 5 minutes out of the tin.
The result was OK. I didn't get any oven spring but the loaf was quite soft. It was much tastier than any supermarket white loaf and fairly popular with my girls. The top of the loaf was very brown although not burnt.
My second go was similar but I used 100% strong flour just to see if it made a difference to the rise. Dan's recipe bakes the loaf at 210C (fan oven) for 15 minutes followed by 180C for 25-30 minutes. As my previous loaf had been very brown I decided to try this lower temperature. He also brushes the top with milk so I did this too.
This loaf was not a great success. The loaf didn't seem to be fully cooked after 45 minutes so it had to go back in the oven for longer. In the end it was in for about an hour - twice as long as the previous time. This meant the crust was quite thick. Also, when I brushed the top with milk it ran down the side. This meant the loaf stuck to the pan although I did eventually get it to come out. Again, the bread was edible but not as good as I would have liked.
For my latest attempt I made two loaves and decided to add some spelt flour in an attempt to make it more tasty - I normally like to eat wholemeal rather than white bread. I also increased the amount of flour per loaf as my tins are quite large. This time the recipe was (for two loaves):
900g strong white flour
200g wholemeal spelt flour
770g whole milk
44g maple syrup
55g unsalted butter
18g salt
8g dry yeast
In an attempt to get some decent oven spring I preheated the oven to 300C non-fan. I sprayed the tops with water instead of brushing with milk. On putting the loaves in the oven I turned the temperature down to 230C. After 25 minutes I tried to get the loaves out of their tins but struggled again. After a bit more time in the oven I managed to get them out but one loaf lost part of its crust as it was stuck fast to the tin.
Despite being damaged these loaves are a great success. They taste delicious - the little bit of spelt has really helped. There was a decent amount of oven spring and the crumb is lovely and soft. Most important of all I don't think I've seen my two girls enjoy my home made bread so much.
Next time I won't divide the dough into two balls - I think this is making the loaf stick to the pan as it sticks round the middle. I shall probably also try with more spelt and might also try rye or even wholemeal wheat, but the bulk of the flour will be white. At least I know there are no additives and the salt content is low.
There is another Dan Lepard recipe for a milk loaf in the old Guardian Guide to Baking, which is my go to milk loaf recipe. http://tinyurl.com/6b2ktcn I've been making that one ever since the Guide came out. He also has a soft white bap recipe that is very good. I am puzzled by the lack of oven spring that you talk about, why do you think that is? Your adapted recipe sounds like a winner both for you and your girls! :)
ReplyDeleteIt will be interesting to see what happens the next time I make this. I will do exactly the same except I will shape the loaf into a single piece instead of two balls, in the hope it won't stick to the tin. Hopefully the oven spring will be the same, but I do find this a bit hit and miss. In the past I thought this was due to whether or not the loaf was under or over proofed. This time it was probably a bit over proofed and yet it sprung nicely. The very hot oven must have helped.
ReplyDeleteIf it is not too forward of me can I suggest you keep notes of the temperature of the dough once mixed and the length of the times of your proves as this can also have a huge effect on the final condition of the dough when you bake. You may do this already of course, I have noticed huge differences with the dough being maybe 3 or 4 degrees warmer...
ReplyDeleteI usually butter and flour my tins and lightly flour the loaf, balls, whatever with dusted hands before I put them in the tin and then they rarely stick. I also never wash my tins up with washing up liquid, I wipe them out with a paper towel, if they need soaking for some reason then I only use hot water. I dry them in a warm oven. Do you introduce steam into your baking procedures? I can't remember if you do... the steam stops the top surface setting too quickly so that when the inside part springs as the yeast reach their highest level of activity before dying, the top can open and rise more expansively. I do this even with tinned loaves if I want a big spring. Hope this helps. Regards Joanna
ReplyDeleteHi Joanna
ReplyDeleteI make the dough the night before and leave in the fridge for around 20 hours before shaping so I am not sure to what extent the dough temperature affects it. The milk was warmer this time so maybe this has made a difference.
I butter and flour my tins and don't usually have too much trouble getting the loaves out. I might try flouring the loaves too and also washing the tins just with water - I've heard this advice before.
I sometimes use steam - I haven't noticed any difference with oven spring but I will try it again.
Always so many things to try.
I am guessing that the dough is near enough fully developed after that long retardation time and that is why you don't always get much spring. After those 20 hours in the fridge how long is it before it goes in the oven? Do you shape it cold, or let it warm up, then sit again in the tin? You could try mixing the dough first thing when you come home, shaping it very tightly before bedtime into tins, wrap well and into the fridge, put oven on first thing in the morning and bake from cold!!! Do it once just to see what happens. Would that fit with your schedule?
ReplyDeleteDan's recipe takes approx 2.5 hours from first mix to going in the oven if you follow the method as in the book, so it is quite different.
I usually shape the dough cold and then it proves at 30C for 1.5 to 2 hours.
ReplyDeleteI could try the final rise in the fridge and bake first thing. That would be a great thing to try on a weekend morning.
Dan's recipes are quite quick - I like to let dough ferment for a while to bring out flavours. But I am inspired by the first couple of bread recipes in Short and Sweet which are quick so I will try these too.